Golf Simulator Screen Size Calculator

Allow 30–40cm between the screen and the wall behind it. The fabric absorbs the shot by moving backwards, so if it is mounted tight to a wall you will hear every strike, the ball will kick back at you, and both the screen and the wall will take damage. If you genuinely cannot spare the depth, protect the wall behind with foam or netting.

As wide as your space sensibly allows, and as tall as your usable ceiling height. Wider screens catch more mishits and feel far more immersive. Our screens are 3m high as standard and come in widths from 1m to 6m, cut to your exact millimetre dimensions — so the calculator above rounds up to the next width band and shows you that price.

People try, and it is how a lot of golfers start. It does not last. None of those materials survive repeated full-speed strikes, they crease so the image looks poor, and they are extremely loud. If budget is the issue, our raw material screen gets you the proper impact fabric without the finished edges — you hang it yourself with bungee cords and tarp clips.

Almost always the screen. Thin single-layer screens crack loudly on impact; a heavier multi-layer screen absorbs far more. The other two causes are tension and clearance — a screen that is too slack or mounted too close to the wall will be noisy no matter how good the fabric is. Even tension across all four sides is what makes a screen quiet and drops the ball at your feet.

It depends on the finish you choose. Eyelets are the most popular — reinforced rings let you tension the screen to a frame with bungee cords or ball ties on all four sides. Hook and loop presses onto a Velcro-lined frame and comes off easily. Hemmed edges let you slot a rod or pipe through the top and bottom for a clean, taut hang. Whichever you pick, tension it evenly — that is the single biggest factor in how it performs.

Work it out from your room, then buy a projector to match — not the other way round. Narrow rooms end up close to 1:1 (square), most home builds land near 4:3, and wider spaces suit 16:10 or 16:9. Getting this backwards is a common and expensive mistake: a projector that cannot output your screen’s ratio will either letterbox the image or overshoot the screen entirely.

If your ceiling is on the low side, yes. A thinned wedge climbs much steeper than people expect and will find the ceiling above your screen. Side protection catches the shanks and heel strikes that miss the screen entirely. It is not the exciting part of a build and it is not cheap, but it is a lot cheaper than replastering. Our wall panels and acoustic padding cover both jobs and cut the echo at the same time.

Usually yes. The common advice is 3m of ceiling height, and plenty of people read that and give up — but around 2.7m is enough for most golfers to swing a driver comfortably. The bigger constraint is your launch monitor: radar units need roughly 5–6m of room depth to track the ball, while camera-based units (SkyTrak, Square Golf, Foresight, Uneekor MINI) need almost no room length at all. In a short room, the launch monitor you choose matters far more than the room.

A quality screen that is properly tensioned and given room to deflect will take years of regular use; the wear shows up as a softened patch where you strike most often. You can absolutely replace just the screen — measure your existing screen or the frame opening, pick the matching finish, and we will make a like-for-like replacement. That is a fraction of the cost of a new enclosure.

Different jobs. A made-to-measure screen is the right answer when you are building your own frame, filling an awkward opening, or replacing a worn screen. An enclosure is the right answer when you want it to arrive as one job with the frame, screen and padding already sized to match. If you would rather not build anything, look at our SimSpace enclosures.